Silestone vs. Granite Countertops - The Real Story

!±8± Silestone vs. Granite Countertops - The Real Story

So you want to upgrade your kitchen or bathroom with a new countertop, but you're not sure what your options are. Chances are you've heard of granite and marble. After all, they have been used for myriad construction purposes for centuries and you always see marble and granite countertops in luxury homes.

But what about Silestone...isn't it better than granite?

Well, it depends on what you think is better. However, Silestone and other makers of engineered quartz stone countertops, such as Zodiaq and Cambria would have you believe their product is a significant upgrade from granite.

Engineered stone countertops are a man-made product that mixes quartz found in granite with a resin to make a surface with properties almost identical to granite. Silestone and all the other companies make essentially the same product, which is widely regarded as an excellent countertop surface.

However, these companies try to make mountains out of molehills in an effort to sell their product and compete against granite which is and has bee the most popular and proven surface type.

Myth #1: Sealing granite is a horrible, dirty chore.

This issue has been blown way out of proportion with marketing. It's always listed as a benefit and one would get the impression that granite is defective and must be sealed with over and over to protect it.

True, you don't have to apply a granite sealer to an engineered stone counter top. And hey, that's great, but applying a granite sealer is really a very simple and infrequent "wipe on, wipe off" procedure. It is not a major chore and for all practical purposes it isn't a determining factor when comparing Silestone vs. granite.

Also, it doesn't take a closet full of special chemicals to protect your granite and keep its luster as Cambria and other engineered stone counter top manufacturers suggest on their websites. Hey, to their credit they are just trying to effectively market their product.

A little secret about most granite . . .

You could do nothing but wipe it with a sponge for years and it would still look gorgeous. Minor, easy maintenance performed periodically will, however, give you peace of mind and bring out the best in your granite and natural stone. And the same can be said about quartz. Care and cleaning is equally easy for either surface.

Myth #2: Again with the sealing.

You may also read that you must seal granite to maintain it's shiny polish. Not true. Sealing is for stain resistance. Both natural and synthetic stone counter tops are polished by grinding and buffing the surface into a smooth shine.

Myth #3: Granite harbors bacteria.

Silestone also tries to claim their product resists bacteria while granite "harbors" bacteria. This is totally false. Studies prove that both granite and quartz are among the safest and cleanest surfaces on the market today, but one isn't superior to the other.

So Which Countertop Is Best?

Well, once you remove the hype and you understand that man-made quartz countertops and granite perform equally well and that the care and cleaning of each surface is essentially the same, the decision between granite and Silestone, Cambria, Zodiaq or other quartz counter tops usually comes down to color, pattern and perceived value for most buyers.

Color and Value

Granite enjoys a greater "prestige" due to it's natural uniqueness and is therefore, of greater value in the minds of most homeowners and buyers. New granites come on the market all the time from different countries providing hundreds and possibly thousands of different colors and patterns to choose from.

Silestone and other engineered stone manufacturers offer 20-50 color choices all of which have basically the same repetitive pebbled appearance. The benefit here is that you never have a problem matching a pattern or color at a seam, which sometimes is a problem with granite. Of course, you may end up with the exact same countertop as your neighbor, which won't happen with granite as each slab is unique.

So, whether you choose engineered stone or granite you will get an excellent countertop surface. Just don't listen to all the marketing hype and pick your product based on what color and pattern you like best.

Silestone vs. Granite Countertops - The Real Story

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The Verification Home Inspection to Prove Repairs

!±8± The Verification Home Inspection to Prove Repairs

When a home inspection contingency is part of a real estate purchase agreement, the buyer often requests certain repairs (called out in the inspection report) to be completed by the seller prior to closing. A home re-inspection is a way for him to verify that the repairs have been done properly. He calls back the same home inspector he hired originally, who then examines, either for free or for an additional fee, the specific defects thus identified, and he excludes everything else.

This verification home inspection is often confused with what is known as the "verification of property condition," but the two are actually different. The latter term refers to a final walk-through the buyer takes through the property to make sure that the house is in the same condition as he expects. It is not a tool for further negotiations, nor does it in any affect the binding terms of the contract. In other words, it doesn't remove any obligation the seller has to complete repairs to which he has agreed, but it also doesn't permit the buyer to tack on additional demands. All the walk-through really does is absolve the real estate agent(s) of liability.

It is also important to distinguish between the original home inspection, which is the work of a generalist, and follow-up work or "further evaluation" recommended in the inspection report and performed by specialists. Some clients object to having to shell out additional money for more inspection fees, but the home inspector is not licensed to make repairs or to render an expert judgment in areas that require special qualifications, such as pests, chimneys, electrical, plumbing, HVAC, foundation, soil, septic/sewer, and hazardous materials such as radon, lead-based paint, asbestos, and measuring air quality. Many inspectors do acquire additional, special licensing, but even then they need to be careful to avoid conflicts of interest. Washington State permits inspectors to repair defects they inspected only after a year has passed.

Use the same home inspector hired originally to conduct the verification inspection. Otherwise, you are really paying for another complete home inspection. The first inspector is already familiar with the house and can immediately tend to the specific defects highlighted by the client.

Some home inspectors charge a re-inspection fee (typically about a third of the original fee). Others provide this service free of charge for a limited period of time, typically up to a year after the original inspection. Members of each school of thought justify their position with sound philosophical and ethical reasoning, differing primarily in how strongly one feels it is necessary to stay above all suspicion of taking kickbacks, despite having vowed to adhere to ethical Standards of Practice.

Some inspectors shy away from doing a verification home inspection. There are certain liability dangers that arise when the seller hires a layperson, without financial protection or license, to make repairs. The layperson may, intentionally or unwittingly, make only cosmetic repairs, and the inspector may be unable to tell that the real problem remains unaddressed. In this case, the only recourse the client has is to come after the person conducting the inspection. Because of this, many inspectors will not agree to do a home re-inspection without proof (e.g., invoice) that the contractor was a licensed professional.

The Verification Home Inspection to Prove Repairs

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Granite Tales - Myths, Urban Legends, and Fabrications (Of the Other Kind)

!±8± Granite Tales - Myths, Urban Legends, and Fabrications (Of the Other Kind)

The following bits of commercial granite folklore have been taken directly from customer comments and questions, pieces circulating on the web, and discussions with hundreds of homeowners who graced me with the opportunity to service their commercial granite. Just for fun, I'll give you a little background on each, where they came from, and how they got started. In case you haven't heard some of these before, you'll be prepared when they eventually make their way 'round to you!

Please note I use the term "commercial granite" throughout this article. This is because we are referring to stones that are sold commercially as granite, rather than the (very) narrow subset of stones that meet the scientific definition.

1.) My Contractor / Granite Salesperson / Internet Guru (Pick Your Favorite Perpetrator) Said My Granite Doesn't Require Sealing - Those of you that have read my previous work are probably sick of me harping on this, but I (unfortunately) hear this one more often than all others. It is the most damaging of all the granite maintenance malpractices you can commit if you rely on this unsound advice.  

Interestingly, there are a couple of Internet "experts" who semi-endorse this fallacy (but will sell you their impregnator if you ABSOLUTELY, REALLY insist on having one, and theirs lasts FOREVER... Hilarious!). One even goes so far as to state that the physical properties of granite dictate it never needs to be sealed (funny, they also have a "lifetime" sealer for sale two paragraphs later). 

I was in recently in Los Angeles, visiting a property manager who had stains in approximately 1/3 of the 305 commercial granite counters they recently installed in their newly renovated luxury apartments. I wish I could have brought the naysayers with me so they could convince the distraught maintenance folks that those oil and wine stains were only figments of their imagination...

From the contractor perspective, back in the bad old days, impregnators were primarily based on silicone derivatives. While fantastic against water, they were (and are) poor performers against oil-based stains. Additionally, if they were over-applied, the impregnator residues on the surface of the stone would also absorb oil. Double whammy. Here's the logic: If it's a given that oil stains are the worst to remove, and if the impregnator won't stop them anyway, why bother? That was in the late '80s - this is 2007, and we have technology that will stop oil staining dead in its tracks. Like all misinformation, it has a little root in fact, and it dies slowly.

The Internet folks have different motivations. Either they are:

A: trying to sell you granite slabs by disavowing any faults commercial granite has, or

B: using reverse psychology sales techniques (poorly, I might add) to sell you their impregnator.

2.) My Neighbor Told Me My Granite Isn't Safe Because it Harbors and Grows High Amounts of Bacteria - This one is still circulating even though it has been proven false numerous times by both government and industry organizations. Please allow me the opportunity to set the record straight on this one, once and for all - it is absolute rubbish. In fact, properly maintained commercial granite surfaces are some of the most sanitary you can buy. Like all other food prep surfaces, commercial granite should be properly cleaned.

It is widely held that the manufacturers of man-made counter top materials started these rumors, although no solid proof exists. In summary, The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health has given commercial granite a clean bill of health, as has the Centers for Disease Control (CDC).

3.) Someone Told Me My Granite Emits Radon Gas and is Radioactive - A little bent science goes a long way... Minuscule amounts of radon gas are emitted by nearly any type of stone found where uranium is present, and trace amounts of uranium can be found nearly anyplace you find stone. Bottom line? There are no health or safety risks associated with the release of radon gas or radioactivity from commercial granite. 

As a matter of note, concrete, cement, and gypsum all release as much or more radon gas than commercial granite, and there is no health risk associated with them, either. It is also believed that a manufacturer of man-made counter top materials started this rumor.

4.) I Was Told to Clean My Granite With Just Soap and Water - This one has a couple of variants floating around, including specifically using dish detergent (and a special brand, I might add) or plain water. Will doing this harm your commercial granite? No, it won't. Will it impact the way it looks? Yes, it will. 

If you were to wash your windows with plain "soap and water" (or dish detergent,  or plain water) and a sponge, I guarantee that you will not be pleased with their appearance.

With this in mind, it is best to perform routine cleaning of your commercial granite with a product that is specifically designed for use on natural stone. Using soap, dishwashing detergent, or non stone-specific cleaners will leave your commercial granite looking dull and lifeless.

5.) Somebody Told Me the Shine Will Wear Off My Granite, and It Will Require Re-Polishing - Unless you are playing roller hockey on your commercial granite surfaces, it is highly unlikely you will need to have them re-polished. I have seen very isolated instances (all of them on very dark "granite") where the surface actually deteriorated under normal use and required re-polishing. In reality, these stones were suspect to begin with, as it was unlikely that they met a 5.5 rating (the minimum hardness allowed) on Mohs's Scale of Hardness. Good quality commercial granite, properly maintained, will not permanently lose its shine for a long, long, time - even under heavy (but considerate) use. 

If your granite has been waxed, then the "shiny" will wear off, and you will need to re-wax them. Waxing of commercial granite is generally NOT RECOMMENDED, so do it only if your surfaces were previously waxed to provide their final gloss.

Most shine and reflectivity loss is caused by the use of improper cleaning chemicals, improper cleaning methods, or both. As I mentioned earlier, if you need a demonstration of what soap and water do to the appearance of your commercial granite, just wash your windows with (fill in your favorite "soap" here), water and a sponge. "Soap and water" leave residues on the stone that will eventually dull the finish.

The good news is that dulling from surface residue is not permanent. It can be removed using a high alkaline content cleaner designed for natural stone. In some instances, calcification (mineral deposits from evaporated water) will dull surface areas, especially around faucets and fixtures. These deposits may also be quickly, easily, and safely removed.

I also recommend the weekly (or whenever you want to) use of "vanity" products to increase the gloss and improve the general appearance of your commercial granite. These products provide the additional benefits of reducing water spotting and fingerprints on polished surfaces. 

6.) Practices & Products

At the end of the day, it all boils down to this:

- Keep your commercial granite properly impregnated (sealed).
- Clean up spills and contamination in a timely manner.
- Do not use sharp implements on your commercial granite.
- Do not place extremely hot items on your granite. 
- Use quality products, specifically designed for commercial granite.

Granite Tales - Myths, Urban Legends, and Fabrications (Of the Other Kind)

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SoundProofing Yards and Dealing With Outdoor Noise

!±8± SoundProofing Yards and Dealing With Outdoor Noise

It Seems to Be Coming From Everywhere

Outdoor noises can come from all sorts of directions at one time and may have many sources and can be reflected all over the place.   People tend to look at what they think is the source and imagine that the sound is travelling along a straight line straight from the source to their yard. It's possible for some sounds to take a detour and bounce off buildings and other objects and arrive at your yard amplified and from a quite unexpected direction. The amplification which occurs is no different to sound amplification which occurs when a murmur is channelled through a wind instrument and emerges at the other end as a trumpet blast. So your first step is to identify the source of the problem and the path that it is taking to arrive at your yard.

Words & Regulations Are Great SoundProofers

It might be possible that a nearby business or industry is exceeding acceptable noise levels or operating at inappropriate hours. Sometimes you can solve the problem by simply raising the issue with the proprietor in a friendly manner.  It may even pay to check with your municipal council and make sure that your noisy neighbors are not breaking local laws. People are often surprised when they find that there are actually a lot of laws to protect residential amenity. I have seen laws which restrict the use of air conditioners after a certain time, prohibit leaf blowers and even outlaw pets like roosters and yappy dogs.

Having exhausted logical commonsense approaches to reducing the noise you have two options for solving the problem. The first option is to create some sort of acoustic barrier in the yard. The second option is to return in doors and work on your internal soundproofing. 

An Air Tight Yard!

It is impossible to make a yard airtight so you will always have to deal with flanking sound. Flanking sound is noise which wraps over, under or around your soundproofing structures. All of the principles of internal sound barriers and sound absorption still apply outdoors.

Lower frequency noise has a longer wavelength than high frequency sound and will require a higher and denser barrier. If for example if you are dealing with truck noise you would probably need a barrier as high as 12-15 feet (3.5 - 4.5 metres) or more. In most cases this is impractical or even against municipal building regulations so it might be advisable to return in doors and work on your soundproofing there and be content on a quiet internal environment.  

Is it a Baritone or Soprano Annoyance?

It is correct that higher frequency noises can be blocked by lower fences but there are some complications. Take level crossing train bells noise for example. This is fairly high frequency and you would imagine that a lower fence would block the noise. Unfortunately the train companies have installed their bells at the top of ten foot poles which means you still have to get your fence to around 15 feet to have an acceptable impact on the noise. As a general rule you want to construct the fence at least eight feet higher than the source of the noise. This is less of a challenge when it is ground hugging car tail pipes but challenging when you are dealing with truck horns, and their roof top exhaust systems or even their loud engines which are quite high off the ground. 

The Way of The Lotus Blossom

When structural soundproofing seems out of the question all is not lost. There are still a couple of innovative options. You can soundproof by creating more sound, particularly sound which is  pleasing to the ear.  For example one way to quickly deal with level crossing train bells is to install a descent water feature in your garden as long as it is not a quiet Zen style water feature. The sound of falling water will not only create a pleasant environment but it will interfere with the sound of train crossing bells and make them less noticeable. You can achieve a similar effect with wind chimes although not as effective because they only work when the wind is blowing and the sound is less random and does not mask the train crossing bells as well. The motivated soundproofing enthusiast might consider chimes and a water feature and then external audio speakers for piping pleasant music into the yard.  The application of these three strategies will sufficiently interfere with most annoying noise pollution and allow you to return to your yard for recreation, relaxation and entertainment. Another advantage of these noise masking solutions is that they are usually less expensive and much more DIY.

Acoustic By Name Only

By all means construct a sensible acoustic barrier in your yard but make sure it is at a proper height and that it does not have any openings or gaps anywhere. The right height and absence of gaps are the two most important considerations and these are the things that most people get wrong. Some DIY articles seem to promote the construction of acoustic fences at any height which frankly is a waste of time and effort. A fence won't work just because it has word acoustic in its title! There are some proprietary acoustic fencing systems on the market and even with these systems it is important that you check the required height for your specific problem. Most of these products come with data sheets.

Data Sheet is King

Most data sheets will talk about an amount that the fencing system reduces noise. The amount is measured in decibels or dB. You should look for a system which will reduce the noise by at least 20dB. As a rule of thumb each 10dB is a halving of the perceived noise. Some products come with an STC rating. Again don't consider a product with a rating below about STC 20. STC is a more useful summary of how a product responds over a series of frequencies. See if you can get the frequency chart. Two products can work quite differently depending on the noise source. If you noise problem is lower frequency like trucks and doof doof music then you need a product which blocks more noise at lower frequencies eg between 50Hz and about 500Hz. So you would look for higher values against these frequencies on the STC chart. If your noise problem is at a higher frequency like human voice or small barking dogs or train level crossing bells then you would need better blocking at frequencies around 1000Hz to about 2500Hz. You would look for higher values at these higher frequencies.    

Those Fences Are Big

An effective and relatively light weight material for acoustic fencing is steel sheeting like the material used on deck roofs. Timber fencing performs well but it's harder to create an airtight structure and the timber will be heavier and more difficult to work with. Whatever you use, remember that the structure is higher than usual and it will catch the wind. Make sure that your uprights are closer together and or thicker than usual and also burry them deeper into the ground.

If you already have a tall fence but it has holes or gaps in and round it and perhaps is not made of the right material to block or absorb the offending sound you can consider mass loaded vinyl (MLV). This is a heavy plastic like membrane which is basically weatherproof and you can fix it to your existing fence and it will considerably increase the density of the fence and help block noise. MLV does not change the fact that you still need a serious fence height to make a big difference.

If you live on a large property and you are able to build a mound of earth facing the problem this can be effective and inexpensive way of creating a soundproofing barrier but again the height has to be right and it can take a bit of effort. Another option for large properties is a hay (straw) bale fence. There is endless Internet information these days on building with hay bales and they are cheap and quick.

Take Care Who You Listen To

Like all soundproofing issues there are endless myths about outdoor soundproofing. The most common one is the use of trees and shrubs. Trees and shrubs are pretty much ineffective except as visual screens and perhaps for the masking sounds of the birds and wind through the leaves.

One last point is if you haven't bought your home and you are thinking of buying a nice bargain property which is probably a bit close to the trains, airport or freeway - think again. If you are at all sensitive to noise don't put yourself through the nightmare of trying to solve noise problems for the rest of your days.  Quality of life is more important than a cheap house. Spend a little more and buy quiet.

SoundProofing Yards and Dealing With Outdoor Noise

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Granite Countertops Calgary - Is My Granite Emitting Radons!!!

!±8± Granite Countertops Calgary - Is My Granite Emitting Radons!!!

www.granitecountertopscalgary.com There are tons of myths about Granite Countertops, in this video find out if your Granite Countertop is a cancer causing menace!

Granite Countertops Calgary - Is My Granite Emitting Radons!!!

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All information about the types of Stun Gun

!±8± All information about the types of Stun Gun

The basic premise about stun guns that they are a powerful personal protection device that delivers a disabling electric shock the attacker is. Stun guns will temporarily disable an attacker by interrupting the electrical circuit between the brain and body muscles. It is hard, or fall to the ground. For several minutes, then becomes confused and disoriented, allowing you to run safely. The effects of stun guns, while extremely powerful, are not permanent.The attacker will recover, but you will have the opportunity to escape.

Modern design has taken on shocking change, and are usually small enough to fit into the palm so that they are very hidden, but can last up to a million volts of electricity. With the exception of specially designed stun gun, most of them look like a harmless pager or Blackberry.

If a search on stun guns, you can find them in a variety of shapes and sizes,But not all are legal in every state. Check local laws to buy stun guns and general rules before you decide the style of stun gun that you want.

Runt:

As their name implies, these small safety devices are only about three inches long. However, knowing the stun gun shows that leave a huge shock and are small enough to be carried in a pocket. This compact stun guns are ideal for those travelers that want an effectivePersonal protective equipment, without having to hide burdened by a large instrument.

Mobile Phone Stun Guns:

These devices are cleverly disguised to look like a normal phone. You do not need any professional skills as such, but it carries this weapon stun, knock-down blow which may provide the attacker. Newer cell phone stun guns are rechargeable and need only to any power outlet.

Stun flashlights:

These compactDevices suitable for use as a flashlight, but can be directed against a potential aggressor in an instant. Many people associate an alarm function with the ability to stun for a double layer of protection. Carry stun gun with you, day or night, provides powerful protection volts.

Stun Pens

This compact and powerful stun are ideal for any woman's bag. They look like a lipstick or a mascara container, but pack an electric shock. While noise in your walletgive an attacker on your portfolio, they will never suspected of causing stun gun, in the form of make-up.

Baton Stun Guns

Reach out and touch an attacker in a way that is not soon forget with the stun guns that look like a line, so that you can offer would-be extra distance between you and your attacker. Continuing to stun gun in the form of a line will be an additional surge protection.

Research on stun guns, which are revealed in manyShapes and sizes, running a series of voltage options. Even the smallest stun guns come with the ability to handle the shock of the maximum available, so you have a number of opportunities for your personal protection. Other stun guns can be molded brass knuckles, sticks, kubatons or any number of other devices is usually harmless. This allows the user to the element of surprise in their program includes self-defense, providing a chance to weaken even more the attacker andso that the opportunity to escape. You may also want to stun devices, alarms, to learn the user at the same time off attackers and signal for the integration of information on how to activate it.

All information about the types of Stun Gun

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